Which T-Shirts are Better: Tubular or Side-Seamed?
Why some tees fit differently and why it matters more than you think
I think it’s fair to say that most people buy a t-shirt based on the graphic and they probably rarely consider the actual shirt itself? But it’s the shirt’s feel and construction that will determine whether you wear it once a month or once a week.
Some shirts feel structured and durable. Others feel soft and fitted. Some hang straight. Others contour naturally. And a lot of that comes down to something most people never think about:
T-shirt construction.
Listen to this Story on the 1923 Main Street Podcast
Some of the specific things to consider are:
Side seams vs tubular construction
Fabric weight
Fit profile
Softness
How the shirt breaks in over time
At 1923 Main Street®, we use several different t-shirt blanks because different designs work better on different styles of tees. And honestly, different people like different fits and feels.
One thing that differentiates our shop from anyone else is that we always tell you, in every listing, what the base item is. We believe that being transparent is important. If you already own a tee of the same type, you can choose the right size more accurately. So here’s a practical breakdown of some of the most common shirts we use:
Gildan 5000
Gildan 64000
Comfort Colors 1717
Bella+Canvas 3001
Once you understand the differences, buying tees gets a lot easier.
What Is Tubular vs Side-Seamed Construction?
This is one of the biggest structural differences in modern t-shirts. If seams bother you, you’ll want to keep this in mind.
Tubular (Barrel Style) T-Shirts
Tubular shirts are made from a continuous tube of fabric.
That means:
No side seams
Straighter body shape
More traditional fit
Slightly roomier feel
This is old-school t-shirt construction and it’s still extremely popular for heavier classic tees.
Advantages of Tubular Shirts
Comfortable and unrestricted
Durable
Good for relaxed fits
Often preferred for workwear or vintage-style shirts
Less twisting around the torso
Possible Downsides
Can feel a little boxier
Less of a tailored fit
Not always as flattering for slimmer builds
Still, for a lot of people, this is exactly what they want and they’re not really downsides.
These shirts are great if you like:
Skate style
Vintage tees
Relaxed streetwear fits
Slightly oversized looks
Side-Seamed T-Shirts
Side-seamed shirts are stitched together using separate front and back panels. So they have seam from under the armpit to the bottom of the shirt on both sides.
This seam structure creates:
A more shaped fit
Cleaner drape (the way it falls or hangs)
Better contouring through the body
More modern retail-style silhouettes
Most of the softer tees use this type of construction now.
Advantages of Side-Seamed Shirts
More fitted appearance
Cleaner fashion silhouette
Better for layering
Softer feel in many cases
Possible Downsides
Can feel slimmer
Less forgiving if you prefer relaxed fits
Some shrinkage becomes more noticeable
Comparing the Shirt Styles We Use at 1923 Main Street
So what about the actual tees we use as blanks? Here’s an overview that will help to keep you more informed.
Ride the Mountain (or just buck it)
Our Backside Rodeo tee celebrates one of snowboarding’s classic tricks, featuring a bold bucking mustang and built for comfort on and off the board. This mid-weight tee is durable and ready for anything you can throw its way.
Perfect for snowboarders who appreciate style that’s straightforward, not forced.
• Base Item: Gildan 5000
• 100% cotton
• Ash Grey is 99% cotton, 1% polyester
• Fabric weight: 5.0–5.3 oz/yd² (170-180 g/m²)
• Open-end yarn
• Tubular fabric
• Taped neck and shoulders
• Double seam at sleeves and bottom hem
• Blank product sourced from Honduras, Nicaragua, Haiti, Dominican Republic, Bangladesh, Mexico
Disclaimers:
• Due to the fabric properties, the White color variant may appear off-white rather than bright white.
• Dark color speckles throughout the fabric are expected for the color Natural.
This product is made especially for you as soon as you place an order, which is why it may take us a bit longer to deliver it to you. Making products on demand instead of in bulk helps reduce overproduction, so thank you for making thoughtful purchasing decisions.
Please note: since all orders are custom created, all sales are final and we do not accept returns, refunds or exchanges. Please check sizing carefully using the guide.
Gildan 5000
The Classic Heavyweight Tee
The Gildan 5000 is a classic tubular heavyweight shirt. This is the kind of tee people grew up wearing. They are used by lots of places, from brands like ours to concert tees and more.
Construction: Tubular (no side seams)
The Gildan 5000 uses classic tubular construction, meaning the body is made from a continuous tube of fabric with no side seams.
What That Means
Straighter fit through the torso
More traditional silhouette
Slightly boxier feel
Comfortable and durable
This is the classic band tee/workwear/skate tee type of construction that a lot of people already know and love (or at least that they’re used to wearing).
Overall Feel
Mid-to-heavyweight
Structured
Relaxed fit
Breaks in over time
Best For
Vintage-style graphics
Relaxed streetwear
Oversized looks
People who dislike fitted shirts
Skateboarding isn’t complicated.
Skateboarding is a lot of things: freedom, adrenaline, carve and sometimes, yes, painful. But complicated isn’t one of them. Our Skate Black and White unisex tee is for everyone who knows what it’s really all about.
Also available as a hoodie.
• Base Item: Gildan 64000 • 100% ring-spun cotton • Sport Grey is 90% ring-spun cotton, 10% polyester • 4.5 oz/yd² (153 g/m²) • Shoulder-to-shoulder taping • Quarter-turned to avoid crease down the center • Blank product sourced from Bangladesh, Nicaragua, Honduras, Dominican Republic, Haiti or Guatemala
Disclaimer: Due to the fabric properties, the White color variant may appear off-white rather than bright white.
This product is made especially for you as soon as you place an order, which is why it may take us a bit longer to deliver it to you. Making products on demand instead of in bulk helps reduce overproduction, so thank you for making thoughtful purchasing decisions.
Please note: since all orders are custom created, all sales are final and we do not accept returns, refunds or exchanges. Please check sizing carefully using the guide.
Gildan 64000 Softstyle
Softer Modern Tee
Construction: Primarily tubular construction (though some variants may be side-seamed)
The Gildan 64000 is softer and lighter than the 5000, but unlike a lot of soft style retail tees, it’s usually still tubular construction.
That means:
No side seams on most versions (it gets tricky, because occasionally they have side seams and we do not know which in advance)
Straighter body profile
Less tailored than retail-fashion blanks
However, some colours shades or manufacturing runs may vary slightly, depending on production source.
What this Means
Even though the fit feels more modern and softer than a 5000, it still has some traditional t-shirt structure.
It sits somewhere between:
Classic heavyweight tees
andPremium retail-style shirts
Overall Feel
Lightweight
Soft immediately
Less boxy than the 5000
Easy everyday wear
Best For
Casual daily wear
Softer graphic tees
Summer outfits
People who want softness without a super fitted cut
Strong lines. Clean design. No explanation needed.
She Who Surfs is more than a phrase — it’s your identity. This women’s surf t-shirt by 1923 Main Street® features a bold, vertical board graphic that stands tall and unmistakable. Minimal, confident, and pure you.
Made for Women Who Paddle Out
Designed for female surfers, this tee delivers a relaxed yet flattering fit that moves with you — from pre-dawn surf checks to post-session coffee runs.
Built for the Surf Lifestyle
Because surfing is not a hobby. It is part of who you are.
• Base Item: Comfort Colors 1717
• 100% ring-spun cotton
• Fabric weight: 6.1 oz/yd² (206.8 g/m²)
• Garment-dyed
• Relaxed fit
• 7/8″ double-needle topstitched collar
• Twill-taped neck and shoulders for extra durability
• Double-needle armhole, sleeve, and bottom hems
• Blank product sourced from Honduras
This product is made especially for you as soon as you place an order, which is why it may take us a bit longer to deliver it to you. Making products on demand instead of in bulk helps reduce overproduction, so thank you for making thoughtful purchasing decisions.
Please note: since all orders are custom created, all sales are final and we do not accept returns, refunds or exchanges. Please check sizing carefully using the guide.
Comfort Colors 1717
Garment-Dyed Heavyweight Tee
Construction: Tubular (no side seams)
The Comfort Colors 1717 uses tubular construction, but because of the garment dyeing and wash process, it feels much more premium and relaxed than basic heavyweight tees. It also comes at a higher price as a result.
What That Means
Relaxed drape
Comfortable movement
Vintage-inspired fit
Slightly oversized feel
This is a big reason why the shirt works so well for surf, skate, and coastal aesthetics.
Overall Feel
Heavyweight but soft
Broken-in immediately
Washed and faded appearance
Premium casual vibe
Best For
Coastal style
Vintage graphics
Relaxed streetwear
Oversized fits
For everyone who avoids overplanning. For those who prefer to live life unscripted and dare to create their own park adventures, we created the Unscripted: Adventure Without Plans unisex t-shirt.
This is for all of you who like to carve your own paths and discover your own experiences, without anyone or any technology telling you what to do or where to go.
This is life unscripted. Break free and chart your own adventure.
Also available as a hoodie.
• This Item: Bella + Canvas 3001
• 100% combed and ring-spun cotton (Heather colors contain polyester)
• Fabric weight: 4.2 oz./yd.² (142 g/m²)
• Pre-shrunk fabric
• Side-seamed construction
• Shoulder-to-shoulder taping
• Blank product sourced from Nicaragua, Mexico, Honduras, or the US
This product is made especially for you as soon as you place an order, which is why it may take us a bit longer to deliver it to you. Making products on demand instead of in bulk helps reduce overproduction, so thank you for making thoughtful purchasing decisions.
Please note: since all orders are custom created, all sales are final and we do not accept returns, refunds or exchanges. Please check sizing carefully using the guide.
Bella+Canvas 3001
Retail-Style Tee
Construction: Side-seamed
The Bella+Canvas 3001 uses side-seamed construction, giving it a more fitted and fashion-forward silhouette. However, it is also viewed by some as being too “thin” compared to the Gildan 64000, for example.
Instead of a fabric tube, separate panels are stitched together along the sides.
What That Means
More of a shaped fit
Cleaner lines
Better contouring
Modern retail feel
This is the type of construction commonly used by boutique clothing brands.
Overall Feel
Very soft
Lightweight
Tailored without being tight
Cleaner drape on body
Best For
Modern casual outfits
Layering
Slimmer silhouettes
Premium fashion-style graphics
Which T-Shirt Style is Best?
There’s no universal winner because we all like different fits and feel. So it depends entirely on how you like your shirts to feel and wear.
If You Like:
Relaxed vintage fits: Gildan 5000 or Comfort Colors 1717
Softer modern fits: Gildan 64000 or Bella+Canvas 3001
Heavyweight feel: Gildan 5000 or Comfort Colors
Lightweight softness: Bella+Canvas 3001
Broken-in comfort: Comfort Colors 1717
A lot of people end up liking different shirts for different reasons and a lot of people just buy the shirt because they like the graphic. And maybe that is the whole point.
The Choice is Yours
A graphic might get your attention, but construction is what determines whether a shirt becomes part of your regular rotation.
Some people want structure. Others want softness. Some people like heavyweight vintage-style tees. Others prefer cleaner retail fits. Neither is wrong, but there are differences.
The good news is that once you understand things like tubular construction, side seams, fabric weight, and fit profiles, you stop guessing—and start buying shirts you actually enjoy wearing. Or at least, when you buy a shirt, you’ll have an idea what it’s going to be like because we are transparent and up-front about this information.